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A pearl necklace is so versatile that it can be worn anywhere and at anytime. Purchasing a beautiful necklace doesn’t even have to be too expensive.
What Pearls Are
Types of pearls include natural pearls, cultured pearls and imitation pearls. Most pearls you’d find in a jewelry store are cultured, as natural pearls are very rare. Natural and cultured pearls can also be subdivided into freshwater and saltwater pearls. They can be white or other colors like pink, green, black or even purple. A natural pearl is made when an oyster or mussel lays down layers of nacre, or pearl covering, over an irritant like a speck of sand. With a cultured pearl an irritant is inserted into the oyster, which causes the animal to lay down a layer of nacre. Imitation pearls can be hollow glass beads filled with wax, or beads made of glass, plastic or mother of pearl.
What Determines the Price
The shape of a pearl largely determines how much it costs. Perfectly round pearls are the most valuable, though some very valuable pearls aren’t round. Pearls can be round, a little flattened, teardrop shaped, oval, or semi-Baroque, which means they can be pearshaped, drop-shaped, egg-shaped or button-shaped. Real Baroque pearls are irregular. The size of a natural pearl is measured in grains, which is about one quarter carat.
A pearl is judged by its luster or how beautifully light is absorbed and then reflected back through its layers of nacre. Pearls are also judged by flaws such as bumps, discoloration, wrinkles, scratches, dimples, dull spots and cracks.
Necklaces and Clasps
The length of the necklace is taken into account when deciding on price. The length of pearl necklaces are, roughly:
The choker, which is about 14- to 16-inches-long; princess length, which is 16- to 20-inches-long; matinee, which is 20- to 26-inches-long; opera length, 28- to 36-inches-long, and a rope, which is 40 inches and over. A necklace can also be a bib, which is three or more strands of graduated pearls, with the longest strand not over 26-inches long, or matinee length. The dog collar is strands of pearls held by a single clasp. The torsade is a pearl necklace made by twisting the strands around each other. A uniform strand is made of same size pearls and a graduated strand is where the pearls are of different sizes, with the largest pearl near the center of the necklace. Graduated strands tend to be less expensive than uniform pearl necklaces.
Types of metal clasps also factor into the price. Some long pearl necklaces have “mystery clasps” where the necklace can be taken apart to form smaller necklaces or bracelets. Taking these clasps apart might require some instruction by the jeweler, as fumbling with the clasps might break the necklace.
Testing and Buying
A customer can test to see whether the pearl is real. Lightly raking a pearl across the teeth is one way, for a real pearl feels rough against the teeth, and an imitation pearl feels smooth. A jewelers loupe or a magnifying glass can be used; if the surface of the pearl is grainy it’s probably fake, and if it has scaly lines it’s probably real.
There’s no standardized grading for pearls, so the best way to shop for a pearl necklace is to comparison shop and look at a lot of necklaces. It’s also good to establish a relationship with a jeweler and to remember that if a sales pitch sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
Sources:
- Renee Newman. The Pearl Buying Guide, 1992
